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Recent Submissions
Adapting Lindqvist’s Kinetic Garment Method for an Upcycled, Zero-Waste Childrenswear Romper
(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2018) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.
The purpose was to research methods for creating a sustainable little
girls’ garment by upcycling menswear (e.g., button-down shirt and ties). Specific elements of
sustainability focused on include zero-waste and garment adjustability to increase useful
lifespan. The market analysis invoked a secondary goal: a bifurcated design. Lindqvist’s (2013)
experimental patternmaking technique of kinetic garment construction was chosen for
experimentation in conjunction with upcycled textiles as his cutting and wrapping methods may
be adaptable for creating upcycled and zero-waste garments.
New Configurations in Fashion: Innovative Forms Meet Engineered Textile Printing
(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2018) Sanders, Eulanda A.; McKinney, Ellen C.; Baytar, Fatma
June 15 – 21, 2017 the New Configurations in Fashion: Innovative Forms Meet Engineered Textile Printing workshop was held at Iowa State University. The project was funded by a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts (NEA) and the Donna R. Danielson Professorship in Textiles and Clothing at Iowa State University. The goal of the workshop was to establish a physical space and time where participants can: (a) create innovative textile and fashion designs, (b) develop textile designs that follow the form and structure of the garments, and (c) utilize patternmaking techniques such as subtraction cutting, zero waste, three dimensional, computerization, or 3D body scanning. The workshop was designed for junior faculty and graduate students who had a demonstrated record of artist excellence or the potential for excellence in the field of fashion and textile design.
Slow the Fashion: Teaching Handcraft Techniques in Fashion and Textile Design in Higher Education
(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2018) Wang, Liwen; McKinney, Ellen C.; Dong, Huanjiao
It has been found that textile and fashion industry is among the leading resource-consuming and polluting industries especially with the advent of fast fashion. Under the high pressure from increasing environmental problems in the world, a movement of slow fashion is gaining increasing attention. It is challenging fast fashion’s obsession with mass-production and globalized style and becoming a guardian of diversity and indigenous handcraft. Studies show that handcrafted items can evoke positive emotional bond between consumer and maker hence increase the value of a garment, which adds to the sustainability of the item through extended wear. For designers, handcrafting nurtures their creativity as hands are subtle, sensitive, probing and closely connected to the mind. Since designers have a lot control of products that are introduced, it is significant to ensure that fashion design students are aware of the importance of sustainable fashion, and get training on sustainable design techniques for further application. Although more and more fashion schools in the world are providing sustainability education in fashion and textile design, few have introduced sustainable design techniques such as handcrafting in class. To address this gap, a learning unit of handcraft manipulation of yarns and fabrics was developed and implemented in an undergraduate creative design studio class.
Self-sewn Identity: How Female Home Sewers Use Garment Sewing to Control Self Presentation
(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2018) Martindale, Addie; McKinney, Ellen C.
Personal garment sewing is currently experiencing a renewed interest by women. The results of this qualitative research found personal garment sewing allowed the participants to present themselves in clothing that more accurately represented their taste and personality. The women interviewed used their sewing skills to control the style, fit, and quality of their clothing. The research findings bring forth an awareness of how garment sewing can allow women to gain increased control over their appearance. The women in the study were found to have increased authority over their appearance than their non-sewing peers. Women's time spent sewing was also validated, as it provided significant benefits regarding satisfaction with appearance and self presentation to others. Theories of self presentation and identity are used to explain the findings.
Kimono: Elucidating Meanings of Japanese Textile Artifacts for a Museum Audience
(SciELO, 2021) Luu, Sophia; McKinney, Ellen C.
The objective of this research was to create museum texts and educational materials for a textiles section of a major year-long university museum exhibit focused on exploring Japanese culture and aesthetics through works of fine and applied art. Little background information about the textiles was available. A sample of historical Japanese kimono, yukata, and obi in a university collection was examined using material culture and semiotics research methods. The motifs
present in the textiles were identified and explored for how the motifs represent values relevant to Japanese cultural practices throughout time. In particular, motifs were analyzed for their noted conveyance of a society’s religious and cultural values. Motifs were predominantly botanical, emphasizing the respect for nature within Japanese culture. Other motif categories present
included geometric, animals/insects, cultural/everyday objects, and landscape motifs. 104 individual motifs were identified. Symbolic meanings were examined and interpreted alongside present materials, colors, and techniques. The use of material culture and semiotics research methods for analyzing Japanese textiles is mapped in this study.