Department of Clothing, Textiles & Interior Design

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A Comparative Study of the Abilities of Selected Insitutionalized and/or Psychotic Male Patients, Male Employees, Working in Patient Areas, and Certain Advanced Interior Design Students to Distinguish Differences in Values and Intensities of Two Selected Hues
(The University of Alabama, 1970) Ruthie Sherrel Bass
Three populations of patients, employees, and students were tested by an interview technique to determine their abilities to recognize differences in values and intensities of two selected hues. These findings were analyzed by a Chi-Square method. A 10 percent random sampling of male patients and of male employees working in patient areas at the United States Veterans Administration Hospital, Tuscaloosa, Alabama, was selected. A group of interior design students in the School of Home Economics, University of Alabama, was selected and tested to standardize the test. In the interview, subjects were shown 40 cards in random order on which swatches showing matched pairs of value and intensity variations of two hues were mounted. The two hues were Munsell 2.5 yellow-red and 5.0 blue-green, chosen on the basis of results of a color preference study at the Veterans Administration Hospital. Subjects were asked to decide if the paired swatches were alike or different. The percentage of errors for each population indicated that a majority of all three populations correctly identified 39 of the 40 matched pairs. In reviewing the statistical analysis, the hypothesis that the abilities of the patient population are not as great as the abilities of the employee and student populations cannot be rejected at the .01 level of significance. Individual analysis of the intensity and value variations indicated that the patient population had more difficulty in recognizing color variations in the pairs of blue-green values and the pairs of yellow-red values and intensities than did the other populations. Analysis of the pairs of blue-green intensities indicates that all three populations had difficulty in recognizing differences. The test also indicated that while patients had difficulty in recognizing fine color variations (one-step differences in the Munsell Color Charts), they were able to recognize more variations at the two-step difference level, and recognized almost all variations at the three step difference level. Findings also indicated that the design students who had taken at least one course in color theory and its application could more easily recognize the variations in the color pairs than could the employees and the patients. The findings are limited only to the groups described, and not to the total group of institutionalized and/or psychotic patients and employees in all Veterans Hospitals. The testing instrument used in this study should be used in future studies with a larger sampling of patients, employees, and students. More testing should be conducted with the patients and employees in psychiatric hospitals,, expanding the test to include more hues and more variations of intensity and value. These variations should go to extremes at both ends of the value and intensity scales for other hues. The United States Veterans Administration should re-evaluate its recommendations for the use of color in patient areas so that the greatest possible benefit from the influence of color can be used in the treatment of patients. Enough testing should be done to determine the patients* ability to recognize differences in any hue so that the preliminary steps can be taken in establishing a color standard for use in patient areas for this type of institution. Further testing should be conducted to determine the degree to which a pleasing color environment has a therapeutic value for the institutionalized and/or psychotic patient.
A Framework for Classifying the Content of Online Reviews of Formalwear Rented Online
(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2014)
While online reviews are regarded as a key ingredient in product success, little is known about the content of online reviews of apparel products. This study focuses on online reviews found on Rent the Runway (RTR), a very successful firm, which provides consumers who want to wear designer formalwear for special occasions the opportunity to rent at a fraction of the retail price.
A Study of Some of the Factors Influencing the Selection of Outer School Garments of Freshmen Women in Home Economics at Three Selected Colleges in Alabama
(The University of Alabama, 1966) Bennett, Susan Elizabeth
The freshman year in college involves many adjustments for most young women. Much emphasis has been placed upon scholastic ability, prediction of potential growth, and on the personal problems of the college freshman, These problems are of concern to many colleges and universities, and they have established agencies to help the students with them. Research into the problems of college social life, however, has been neglected,, This area of social adaptability is most important in the adjustment of the student to college life. It has been found that the tendency to want to conform or be like one’s peer group is a common human impulse at all ages, however, it may be a stronger impulse in growing children, adolescents, and young people,,1 Correct clothing choices may help one meet, enter, and join the group with which he would like to associates
A Study of the CLothing Buying Habits of a Selected Group of Older Women
(The University of Alabama, 1966)
"Women, no matter what their ages, are more effective in the pursuit of happiness if they not only have cultivated inner graces but have also made themselves outwardly as pleasing as possible." Havinghurst and other gerontological writers agree that paying attention to personal appearance raises self-esteem, gives self assurance, produces a feeling of security and belonginess, raises morale, and helps attain success in our society. Clothing plays an important part in the impressions a person makes on others. Flugel states that it is from their clothes that we form a first impression of our fellow-creatures as we meet them. Many other authorities agree that first impressions take place in about thirty seconds. It has been found that well-dressed people create first impressions of successful, powerful individuals with positive habits of living.
Adapting Lindqvist’s Kinetic Garment Method for an Upcycled, Zero-Waste Childrenswear Romper
(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2018) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.
The purpose was to research methods for creating a sustainable little girls’ garment by upcycling menswear (e.g., button-down shirt and ties). Specific elements of sustainability focused on include zero-waste and garment adjustability to increase useful lifespan. The market analysis invoked a secondary goal: a bifurcated design. Lindqvist’s (2013) experimental patternmaking technique of kinetic garment construction was chosen for experimentation in conjunction with upcycled textiles as his cutting and wrapping methods may be adaptable for creating upcycled and zero-waste garments.
An Inquiry into Gradable Zero-Waste Apparel Design
(MDPI, 2022) Carrico, Melanie; Dragoo, Sheri L.; McKinney, Ellen; Stannard, Casey; Moretz, Colleen; Rougeaux-Burnes, Ashley
The implementation of standardized grading production practices within the mass market has been challenging for scholars experimenting with zero-waste apparel design. The purpose of this research was to test the efficacy of the Carrico Zero-waste Banded Grading (CZWBG) technique, which utilizes bands inserted in strategic locations as a method of grading zero-waste patterns across various consumer categories. An additional purpose was to evaluate the ways in which this grading approach affected the aesthetic outcomes of garments across a size run, and to determine whether this method affected the overall design process of the designers involved. Through experimental research design, six design scholars successfully tested and incorporated the CZWBG technique in zero-waste one or two-piece apparel item(s), subsequently developing three sizes in an industry-specified size range for their product category. Each design was cut from zero-waste patterns in a mid-range size and graded up and down one–two sizes using an industry-standardized grading scale. The grading was achieved by varying the widths and lengths of strategically inserted bands of fabric or trim. The designers utilized various grading methods, textiles, pattern development methods, and size runs, showing that the CZWBG technique can successfully be applied across multiple consumer categories in the apparel industry.
Analysis of Zero Waste Patternmaking Approaches for Application to Apparel
(Springer, 2020) McKinney, Ellen C.; Cho, Sunhyung; Zhang, Ling; Eike, Rachel; Sanders, Eulanda
The apparel industry is a major contributor to environmental problems from textile manufacturing through garment production and distribution to consumer discard – donation, landfill, reuse, or otherwise (Gam, Cao, Farr, & Heine, 2009). In 2015, there were estimated 400 billion square meters of fabrics produced worldwide and 60 billion square meters wasted during apparel production. Vennström (2012) stated that in the United Kingdom around 2.35 million tons of waste comes from the clothing and textile industry per year, which estimates about 40 kilograms (kg) per person each year. Of the 40 kg (88 lbs.) of apparel waste each year, 74% ends up in landfills (Vennström, 2012). Even though the fashion industry applies a variety of technologies to minimize the fabric waste in pursuit of cost reductions, it is still far from eliminating the waste of fabric during the cutting process. On average, 15% of fabric is wasted during the cut-and-sew garment production process (Rissanen & McQuillan, 2016). Professionals and researchers in apparel design and product development discipline are facing a tremendous challenge of combining the innovative patternmaking methods, aesthetics of apparel design, and fabric waste reduction. Zero waste patternmaking offers a solution by utilizing the entire yardage of fabric, leaving no scrap left after the garment completion (Carrico & Kim, 2014). Further, zero waste has been touted as a means to more creative apparel design outcomes (Townsend & Mills, 2013). Many approaches to zero waste patternmaking have been proposed through a range of sources— blogs, websites, books, and articles (e.g. Townsend & Mills, 2013; Carrico and Kim, 2014; Fletcher, 2013; Antanavičiūtė & Dobilaitė, 2015). Unfortunately, many of these approaches are tied to the particular fabric width and finished garment size they are presented in. The aim of this chapter is to conduct a systematic review of these approaches. In so doing, we may understand the key principles and be able to apply them across a range of fabric widths and garment sizes. The main method will be to collect a representative sample of zero waste patternmaking approaches and analyze them. Approaches will be analyzed through visually for their pattern shapes, garment components, and three-dimensional finished garment shapes. Selected approaches will also be drafted, cut, and sewn to further understand the outcomes. Research questions include: (1) What are the major pattern design principles, (2) What outcomes do these results in? (3) What challenges exist with these approaches? These findings will provide information that will help designers successfully apply zero waste patternmaking methods in apparel design. Further, the research findings will provide focus for needed areas of future research.
Case Study as a Means to Document and Promote Creative Pattern Cutting Processes
(2013) McKinney, Ellen C.
Practical experiences of traditional and emerging processes in creative pattern cutting can be successfully documented and promoted through case study. Case study is a comprehensive research strategy for investigating an empirical topic by following a set of pre-specified procedures (Yin, 1994). The case study method is different from research methods such as experiments and surveys where statistical generalization is used to extend the results to a larger population. In the case study method, analytic generalization is used to generalize from the case study to theoretical propositions. This paper explores reasons and solutions for undocumented pattern cutting knowledge. Pattern cutters mentally store their experiences and processes used in cutting patterns; however, rarely is this information documented and shared. Reasons include complexity of the knowledge, difficulty in identifying and documenting specific interactions of measurement, shape, ease, fabric, and personal preference, and the fact that successful design methods are traditionally regarded as trade secrets or the genius of an individual. Case study offers a framework for identifying current practices and documenting the knowledge of the creative pattern cutter. Historically, the legal and medical professions have used case studies to document practice and learn core principles of the profession. Case study has the potential to be used effectively in research of creative pattern cutting practice.
Clothing Needs Following Mastectomy for a Selected Group of Women
(The University of Alabama, 1981) Smith, Marylee Vaughn
Breast cancer strikes 90,0C0 American women every year. The breast is the leading site of cancer incidence and breast cancer is the major cause of death due to cancer among women. It kills almost 34,000 annually in the United States. In fact, breast cancer is the leading cause of all deaths among women 40 through 45 years of age. The estimated number of new breast cancer cases in Alabama in 1978 was 1,100. One of thirteen women in the United States is destined to have breast cancer during her lifetime. (American Cancer Society, 1978) For many of the women who develop breast cancer, surgical removal of the breast may become a reality. Of the three methods of accepted treatment (surgery, radiation, and chemotherapy), surgical removal of the breast has been the primary method of treatment. (American Cancer Society, 1978) Loss of a breast can have traumatic effects on the patient. Problems of living on all levels, physical and psychosocial, tend to become magnified in women following mastectomy. These women need help in learning to cope with life after mastectomy.
Comparison Matrix and Venn Diagram: Making Comparisons in Flat Patternmaking
(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.
The innovative strategy was piloted in an existing flat patternmaking course. In the current curriculum, students do not utilize any formal comparison tools to compare patternmaking concepts, i.e. dart types, stylelines, and so on. To engage students in making patternmaking comparisons, students were introduced to the use of a comparison matrix and Venn diagram. These comparison tools would allow students to practice identifying and thinking critically about the similarities and differences of patternmaking concepts such as dart types and stylelines. An inventory of student responses was compiled by the instructor after the class period, which permitted further instructor evaluation of student comprehension and application of the patternmaking concepts. A student expressed, "It helped point out differences and similarities." Other students stated the tools were helpful as visual aids in understanding the characteristics of patternmaking concepts. The students were advised to keep the handouts for future reference.
Concept Maps: Graphic Organizers for Flat Patternmaking
(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.
In the current flat patternmaking course, students learn patternmaking concepts from the lecture, textbook, instructor-led demonstrations, and self-practice. The innovative strategy was to introduce students to the use of concept maps to organize relevant patternmaking material. By utilizing concept maps, students can chunk or group the patternmaking concepts, which helps them to remember the material. The effectiveness of the concept maps was observed by the instructor in the class. Students expressed that they liked working in pairs because it allowed them to discuss the patternmaking concepts with another person. Students also stated that the concept maps helped them to think about the subject matter learned in the patternmaking class. In the future, patternmaking students should be taught how to make their own concept maps. This would likely assist students in their critical thinking skills and further improve their comprehension of patternmaking concepts.
Consumer Needs and Wants in Confominium/Townhouse Design: A Comparison of Shopper and Developer Perceptions
(The University of Alabama, 1983) Griffin, Nancy Ruth
To provide effective and enjoyable environments, designers and developers of the built environment must know and understand as much as possible about user expectations or requirements. Designers and developers must recognize clients' needs in order to be professionally effective and financially successful. Important in the design process is the study of human factors and the application of their principles and techniques. The humanistic critics of architecture also believe that people need to participate in the planning stages of their environment. Through participation, user needs and values can really be taken into account (Harrigan and Harrigan, 1976).
Delicate Target: A Multi-Dimensional Representation of Woman using RIP Digital Printing Software to Enlarging Half-scale to Full-scale
(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) McKinney, Ellen C.
The author previously investigated the use of flowers in advertisements targeting women. This connection between women and flowers implies that the ideal woman is delicate and beautiful like a flower. The exploration outcome was a gown that made the wearer look like a rose (McKinney, 2006). The current design’s purpose was to create a multi-faceted representation of the female target market. The visually strong black and white target side exterior was juxtaposed with a delicate floral side collaged from apparel, makeup, perfume, and jewelry advertisements. The wearer’s self-representation may be controlled by how the reversible vest is worn. Whether she chooses to show her strong side or her delicate side, the other side will always be peeking out from the inside.
Development of an Online Flat Patternmaking Course: Requirements and Strategies in the "Best Practices for Online Teaching" Seminar Session
(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.
Online courses are increasingly common in the textile and apparel discipline, but there are currently no dedicated forums or publications that textile and apparel professionals can consult for guidance regarding best practices for online teaching. The purpose of this seminar session was to create a space in which online course materials and teaching experiences could be shared to move forward with a monograph publication and/or teaching collection available for ITAA members.
Dress as Related to the Effectiveness and the Assessment of the Effectiveness of a Performer and the Relation of the Authoritarian Personality to the Evaluation of the Performer
(The University of Alabama, 1961) Thompson, Kathleen
In recent years more and more attention has been given to the social and psychological aspects of clothing. However, most of the studies deal almost entirely with the effects of clothing on the individual or how the individual feels that clothing affects him or her. Almost no research has been done relative to the dynamics of clothing behavior in the processes of communication between people. In general, studies indicate that being well-dressed influences one’s feelings of self-confidence, happiness, and efficiency. That being well-dressed affects the way the individual feels is shown in a study by Ryan (1953, P» 14-). She reported that college girls feel more ’’relaxed, comfort able, contented, and confident" when well-dressed. Dearborn (1918, p. 66) stated that in his deliberate opinion "...self-confidence for the great mass of men and women is to some extent obviously dependent on being well-dressed...self-confidence actually is part of the energy and efficiency of the individual." Ditty (1955, p. 96) found that all thirty-nine teachers participating in a study felt that part of a beginning teacher’s success in the classroom depended upon the type of clothing she wore.
Enhancing Comfort and Absorbency: A Comparative Analysis of Commercial Nursing Pads and Proposal for the Integration of Nanofiber Technology
(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2023) Zhang, Ling; Xiang, Chunhui; McKinney, Ellen C.
Breastfeeding mothers frequently rely on nursing pads to prevent leaks and maintain hygiene and comfort between nursing sessions. Despite the widespread use of commercial nursing pads, existing literature has highlighted their poor performance, prompting the need for a quantitative evaluation of their functional properties. To bridge this gap, this study evaluates nine commercially available nursing pads and a proposed new nanofiber material for the nursing pad, assessing their functional characteristics, such as the capacity of absorbing liquid. Ultimately, this research aims to provide new insights into the functional properties of nursing pads and evaluate the efficacy of a new alternative.
Examination of Current U.S. Female Firefighting Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Sizing and Fitting Process Challenges: An Opportunity to Improve Safety
(Springer, 2022) Sokolowski, Susan L.; Griffin, Linsey; Wu, Yingying; McKinney, Ellen C.; Morris, Kristen; Bettencourt, Christine
Between 2010 and 2014, the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) estimated that female firefighters experienced 1260 injuries on the fireground each year. Previous research attributed some of these injuries to ill-fitting fire personal protective equipment (PPE). Therefore, in this mixed-method paper, the authors explored the relationship between fire PPE and injuries, and how they related to sizing and fit. To achieve this aim, data were collected from manufacturer-provided web communications regarding sizing and fit, user surveys (n = 74), and 1:1 interviews (n = 31) with U.S. female firefighters. The data considered how the size and fit standards established by the NFPA and how leading fire PPE manufacturers’ interpretation of standards impacted fit for female firefighters. Interview and survey data pinpointed experiences with the PPE sizing processes that led to poor fit. The data also identified previously undocumented knowledge gaps between NFPA size standards, commercialized products, and processes used by manufacturers and firehouses to fit female practitioners. The study discovered several opportunities to improve the size and fitting process women experienced when acquiring new turnout gear. With effective fire industry partnerships and future research, women can experience fewer injuries, improved comfort, and work performance with their PPE while establishing equality with their male counterparts.
Examination of current U.S. femalefirefighting personal protective equipment(PPE) sizing and fitting process challenges:an opportunity to improve safety
(Springer, 2022) Sokolowski, Susan L.; Griffin, Linsey; Wu, Yingying; McKinney, Ellen; Morris, Kristen; Bettencourt, Christine
Between 2010 and 2014, the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) estimated that female firefighters experienced 1260 injuries on the fireground each year. Previous research attributed some of these injuries to ill-fitting fire personal protective equipment (PPE). Therefore, in this mixed-method paper, the authors explored the relationship between fire PPE and injuries, and how they related to sizing and fit. To achieve this aim, data were collected from manufacturer-provided web communications regarding sizing and fit, user surveys (n = 74), and 1:1 interviews (n = 31) with U.S. female firefighters. The data considered how the size and fit standards established by the NFPA and how leading fire PPE manufacturers’ interpretation of standards impacted fit for female firefighters. Interview and survey data pinpointed experiences with the PPE sizing processes that led to poor fit. The data also identified previously undocumented knowledge gaps between NFPA size standards, commercialized products, and processes used by manufacturers and firehouses to fit female practitioners. The study discovered several opportunities to improve the size and fitting process women experienced when acquiring new turnout gear. With effective fire industry partnerships and future research, women can experience fewer injuries, improved comfort, and work performance with their PPE while establishing equality with their male counterparts.
An experimental study toward eco-friendly bamboo fiber extraction for textiles
(University of Alabama Libraries, 2017) Rocky, AMK Bahrum Prang; Thompson, Amanda J.; University of Alabama Tuscaloosa
Due to bamboo’s higher specific compressive strength when compared to wood, brick or concrete, the use of bamboo is mainly in construction and furniture. The morphology of the plant makes it a successful building material. The fibers are dense and strongly connected by lignin, pectin and other natural bonding elements which makes extraction of fibers challenging. That’s why, conventional rayon processing has been employed to create textile fibers by dissolving bamboo in chemicals retaining cellulosic portions only. Consequently, an increasingly popular advertisement in modern global market is “BAMBOO TEXTILES” which has earned interest from ecofriendly consumers. However, further inquiry into manufacturers’ practices show that the bamboo textiles in the market are made of bamboo viscose fibers and are not natural as consumers might be led to believe. Since the cellulose is mainly extracted to produce rayon, bamboo viscose does not retain the natural unique properties. Lignin and other contents in the fibers may make them stiffer but they are the origin of many unique properties. Extensive removal of these elements makes fibers softer and finer which are often associated with viscose. During this research study, 69 different bamboo fibers were produced from Phyllostachys rubromarginata bamboo species. Twenty-six of the specimens were very good and useable for spinning. This study revealed that no lone attempted method of chemical, enzymatic or mechanical treatment was able to produce expected fibers. Combinations of two or more techniques produced pliable fibers. Analyses of physical properties, structures and dimensions, and antibacterial properties of fibers are reported for each experiment. Most of the extracted fibers as well as cotton were found to be higher in diameter than bamboo and regular viscose. Moreover, fibers that showed antimicrobial/antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus were coarser than viscose. This study also focused on ecofriendly production; therefore, chemicals were employed in the lowest level that would still achieve the desired results. Major findings include specimens that achieve pliable natural bamboo fibers with antibacterial properties, possible routes and techniques for fiber extraction, and successive modification steps to the targeted textile fibers.
Exploration of Body-to-Pattern Shape and Measurement Relationships for Women's Trouser Patterns found in USA and UK Pattern Drafting Methods: Implications for Garment Fit
(2015) McKinney, Ellen C.; Gill, Simeon
Block patterns should accurately reflect the measurements and shape of the individual human form used in their origination to achieve well fitted garments, however, pattern drafting often uses only limited surface measurements and therefore may not be suitably developed to reflect individual forms. Two methods of block drafting (Aldrich, 2008; Joseph-Armstrong, 2010) were selected for investigation of the resultant measurement relationships (ease) and shape relationships between the leg form and drafted trouser patterns.

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