Department of Clothing, Textiles & Interior Design
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Item Dress as Related to the Effectiveness and the Assessment of the Effectiveness of a Performer and the Relation of the Authoritarian Personality to the Evaluation of the Performer(The University of Alabama, 1961) Thompson, KathleenIn recent years more and more attention has been given to the social and psychological aspects of clothing. However, most of the studies deal almost entirely with the effects of clothing on the individual or how the individual feels that clothing affects him or her. Almost no research has been done relative to the dynamics of clothing behavior in the processes of communication between people. In general, studies indicate that being well-dressed influences one’s feelings of self-confidence, happiness, and efficiency. That being well-dressed affects the way the individual feels is shown in a study by Ryan (1953, P» 14-). She reported that college girls feel more ’’relaxed, comfort able, contented, and confident" when well-dressed. Dearborn (1918, p. 66) stated that in his deliberate opinion "...self-confidence for the great mass of men and women is to some extent obviously dependent on being well-dressed...self-confidence actually is part of the energy and efficiency of the individual." Ditty (1955, p. 96) found that all thirty-nine teachers participating in a study felt that part of a beginning teacher’s success in the classroom depended upon the type of clothing she wore.Item A Study of the CLothing Buying Habits of a Selected Group of Older Women(The University of Alabama, 1966)"Women, no matter what their ages, are more effective in the pursuit of happiness if they not only have cultivated inner graces but have also made themselves outwardly as pleasing as possible." Havinghurst and other gerontological writers agree that paying attention to personal appearance raises self-esteem, gives self assurance, produces a feeling of security and belonginess, raises morale, and helps attain success in our society. Clothing plays an important part in the impressions a person makes on others. Flugel states that it is from their clothes that we form a first impression of our fellow-creatures as we meet them. Many other authorities agree that first impressions take place in about thirty seconds. It has been found that well-dressed people create first impressions of successful, powerful individuals with positive habits of living.Item A Study of Some of the Factors Influencing the Selection of Outer School Garments of Freshmen Women in Home Economics at Three Selected Colleges in Alabama(The University of Alabama, 1966) Bennett, Susan ElizabethThe freshman year in college involves many adjustments for most young women. Much emphasis has been placed upon scholastic ability, prediction of potential growth, and on the personal problems of the college freshman, These problems are of concern to many colleges and universities, and they have established agencies to help the students with them. Research into the problems of college social life, however, has been neglected,, This area of social adaptability is most important in the adjustment of the student to college life. It has been found that the tendency to want to conform or be like one’s peer group is a common human impulse at all ages, however, it may be a stronger impulse in growing children, adolescents, and young people,,1 Correct clothing choices may help one meet, enter, and join the group with which he would like to associatesItem A Comparative Study of the Abilities of Selected Insitutionalized and/or Psychotic Male Patients, Male Employees, Working in Patient Areas, and Certain Advanced Interior Design Students to Distinguish Differences in Values and Intensities of Two Selected Hues(The University of Alabama, 1970) Ruthie Sherrel BassThree populations of patients, employees, and students were tested by an interview technique to determine their abilities to recognize differences in values and intensities of two selected hues. These findings were analyzed by a Chi-Square method. A 10 percent random sampling of male patients and of male employees working in patient areas at the United States Veterans Administration Hospital, Tuscaloosa, Alabama, was selected. A group of interior design students in the School of Home Economics, University of Alabama, was selected and tested to standardize the test. In the interview, subjects were shown 40 cards in random order on which swatches showing matched pairs of value and intensity variations of two hues were mounted. The two hues were Munsell 2.5 yellow-red and 5.0 blue-green, chosen on the basis of results of a color preference study at the Veterans Administration Hospital. Subjects were asked to decide if the paired swatches were alike or different. The percentage of errors for each population indicated that a majority of all three populations correctly identified 39 of the 40 matched pairs. In reviewing the statistical analysis, the hypothesis that the abilities of the patient population are not as great as the abilities of the employee and student populations cannot be rejected at the .01 level of significance. Individual analysis of the intensity and value variations indicated that the patient population had more difficulty in recognizing color variations in the pairs of blue-green values and the pairs of yellow-red values and intensities than did the other populations. Analysis of the pairs of blue-green intensities indicates that all three populations had difficulty in recognizing differences. The test also indicated that while patients had difficulty in recognizing fine color variations (one-step differences in the Munsell Color Charts), they were able to recognize more variations at the two-step difference level, and recognized almost all variations at the three step difference level. Findings also indicated that the design students who had taken at least one course in color theory and its application could more easily recognize the variations in the color pairs than could the employees and the patients. The findings are limited only to the groups described, and not to the total group of institutionalized and/or psychotic patients and employees in all Veterans Hospitals. The testing instrument used in this study should be used in future studies with a larger sampling of patients, employees, and students. More testing should be conducted with the patients and employees in psychiatric hospitals,, expanding the test to include more hues and more variations of intensity and value. These variations should go to extremes at both ends of the value and intensity scales for other hues. The United States Veterans Administration should re-evaluate its recommendations for the use of color in patient areas so that the greatest possible benefit from the influence of color can be used in the treatment of patients. Enough testing should be done to determine the patients* ability to recognize differences in any hue so that the preliminary steps can be taken in establishing a color standard for use in patient areas for this type of institution. Further testing should be conducted to determine the degree to which a pleasing color environment has a therapeutic value for the institutionalized and/or psychotic patient.Item Interests and Needs of a Selected Group of Home Sewers in Tuscaloosa County, Alabama(The University of Alabama, 1976) Smith, Jo Ann H.Item Identification of Goals and Assessment Criteria for Competency Based Professional Education in Interior Design(The University of Alabama, 1978) Trick, Sherrill S.Exploring the concept of competency based education (CBE) and its application to professional education for interior design represents a new approach to program planning. A search for alternatives to traditional curriculum development is suggested by the emerging professional status of interior design practice attested to by the recognition of the Foundation for Interior Design Education Research (FIDER), the national accreditation agency for post-secondary interior design programs, by the U.S. Office of Education, and by the Council on Post-secondary Accreditation (COPA). Participation in the accreditation process of FIDER has challenged professional practitioners to contribute to the improvement of interior design education and to communicate pertinent knowledge to educators responsible for identifying educational competencies. To the educator, improved quality demands curriculum evaluation aimed at meeting standards of educational accountability. Implementing a competency based curriculum (CBC) for a professional program such as interior design seems feasible since many of the competencies and behaviors required in the profession are observable and may be evaluated on the basis of specified criteria.Item Clothing Needs Following Mastectomy for a Selected Group of Women(The University of Alabama, 1981) Smith, Marylee VaughnBreast cancer strikes 90,0C0 American women every year. The breast is the leading site of cancer incidence and breast cancer is the major cause of death due to cancer among women. It kills almost 34,000 annually in the United States. In fact, breast cancer is the leading cause of all deaths among women 40 through 45 years of age. The estimated number of new breast cancer cases in Alabama in 1978 was 1,100. One of thirteen women in the United States is destined to have breast cancer during her lifetime. (American Cancer Society, 1978) For many of the women who develop breast cancer, surgical removal of the breast may become a reality. Of the three methods of accepted treatment (surgery, radiation, and chemotherapy), surgical removal of the breast has been the primary method of treatment. (American Cancer Society, 1978) Loss of a breast can have traumatic effects on the patient. Problems of living on all levels, physical and psychosocial, tend to become magnified in women following mastectomy. These women need help in learning to cope with life after mastectomy.Item Post-Occupancy Evaluation in Interior Design: Ferguson Center Cafeteria(The University of Alabama, 1981) Sibley, Jeannie CarterEvaluation has been cited as the overlooked component in architectural design today (Sanoff, 1977). By definition, evaluate is a transitive verb meaning "to determine the significance or worth usually by careful appraisal and study" (Webster, 1965, p. 287). In the vocabulary of the interior design profession, evaluation is the study of an existing environment in terms of design criteria which measure its success in meeting objectives based on the wants and needs of its users. The process, post-occupancy evaluation, is considered one of three essential steps in systematically gathering information regarding the ways people use existing environments: evaluation, programming and design (Sanoff, 1977). The responsibility of the designer is the need to identify, understand and meet often conflicting and demanding expectations and requirements by people for the built environment. The people using a building should be recognized as a principal factor in the success of the designer's work (Harrigan and Harrigan, 1976). Designers cannot address a design problem without reference to the needs of the users of a facility. "A good deal of the conscious intention behind any design, as well as various decisions about its elements, are expressed in terms of its consequence for social behavior" (Gutman, 1972, p. 340). Therefore, the human factor should be taken into account and incorporated into the evaluation process (Sanoff, 1977) .Item Store Design Evaluation: Employee Preference of Selected Interior Design Elements in Two Department Stores(The University of Alabama, 1983) Roberts, MeciaRetailing history reveals that what seems good today may be obsolete tomorrow. Improvements are constantly being made in store design, layout, and display fixtures to create a more flexible and attractive interior. However, it is difficult to forecast what the trends will be for retail design because the trends are based so heavily on changing consumer preference and merchandising approaches. When designing a retail environment, consideration should be given to the physical and psychological impacts on customer attraction, employee morale, and store operations (Lewison and DeLozier, 1982). "By identifying the desired image, targeting the right consumer, and communicating the right impression, the retailer creates a store image that is right for shopping and working" (Lewison and DeLozier, 1982, p. 170). Information from post-occupancy evaluations of retail environments assists professionals in developing general guidelines which can be utilized in the programming phase for retail environments. The information also can be helpful in establishing guidelines for new store construction, design alterations, or renovation of existing spaces.Item Consumer Needs and Wants in Confominium/Townhouse Design: A Comparison of Shopper and Developer Perceptions(The University of Alabama, 1983) Griffin, Nancy RuthTo provide effective and enjoyable environments, designers and developers of the built environment must know and understand as much as possible about user expectations or requirements. Designers and developers must recognize clients' needs in order to be professionally effective and financially successful. Important in the design process is the study of human factors and the application of their principles and techniques. The humanistic critics of architecture also believe that people need to participate in the planning stages of their environment. Through participation, user needs and values can really be taken into account (Harrigan and Harrigan, 1976).Item Female Consumer’s Fit Strategies and Fit Perception of Formalwear Rented Online: Content Analysis(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2013) McKinney, Ellen C.; Shin, EonyouWith the advent of Internet technologies, consumers today have extensive opportunities to evaluate products online. Because “consumer reviews, word-of-mouth on the products, could be the most powerful force in the market place” (Silverman, 1997, p. 34), investigating consumer reviews is crucial to understand potential aspects of clothing that consumers may use to evaluate clothing fit. Given that apparel is a highly body-related product, the body-absent online apparel shopping environments is problematic for consumers’ fit problems and sizing inconsistency. Indeed, 62% of women could not find clothing that fit well, and 57% of women did not fit into today’s standard sizes (NPD Group, 2010).Item Exploration of Body-to-Pattern Shape and Measurement Relationships for Women's Trouser Patterns found in USA and UK Pattern Drafting Methods: Implications for Garment Fit(2015) McKinney, Ellen C.; Gill, SimeonBlock patterns should accurately reflect the measurements and shape of the individual human form used in their origination to achieve well fitted garments, however, pattern drafting often uses only limited surface measurements and therefore may not be suitably developed to reflect individual forms. Two methods of block drafting (Aldrich, 2008; Joseph-Armstrong, 2010) were selected for investigation of the resultant measurement relationships (ease) and shape relationships between the leg form and drafted trouser patterns.Item Precious cut: a practice-based research toward zero-waste design by exploring creative pattern cutting methods and draping techniques(University of Alabama Libraries, 2015) Saeidi, Elahe; Wimberley, Virginia S.; University of Alabama TuscaloosaWith the contemporary methods of fashion construction only effectively using 85 percent of fabric in a garment, 15 percent of the total fabric is left on the cutting room floor. This waste is leaving a “significant ecological footprint”. This thesis is practice-based research to explore creative pattern cutting methods and draping techniques which lead to zero-waste designed garments. This thesis also demonstrates how pre-industrial societies treated fabric as a precious source, utilizing every piece of fabric to minimize waste. The environmental and ethical impact of producing textiles and why we should avoid the wasting of fabric are discussed. Investigations of different ways that fabric waste can be eliminated in the modern fashion industry and various methodological approaches toward zero-waste are examined: Jigsaw with fixed area, Jigsaw with the full width of fabric and tessellation. A new approach, Transformational Reconstruction, which is an innovative patternmaking technique developed by a Japanese designer - Shingo Sato, is examined and tested for its usefulness for zero-waste design. This study proposes that the fashion designer and pattern-cutter can have a great influence on the amount of fabric waste and, working as a team, are capable of producing garments without fabric waste and reducing the ecological footprint of modern apparel production.Item Exploring the Inclusion of Sewing Pattern Development in a Fashion Design Course(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Martindale, Addie; McKinney, Ellen C.An increased interest in home garment sewing and growth in the home sewing industry (IBISWorld, 2014) provides an interesting alternative or supplementary career choice for fashion design students. An innovative teaching strategy was developed to integrate home sewing pattern development into an advanced pattern making class curriculum at a Midwestern university. A number of technologies were used to develop a home-sewing pattern curriculum that could be used by distance and in-person learners. A pre- and post-test was given to gauge student interest in the curriculum, perceived benefits, and skills. Students responded positively to the curriculum and indicated that learning to create a home sewing patterns improved their pattern making skills. Ninety-three percent thought fashion design students should learn how to create sewing patterns and write sewing instructions Seventy-three percent of students felt that it expanded their future career possibilities.Item Wee Bonnie Garden: Design Strategies for a Multi-Generational Christening Gown(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.Christening garments are worn by infants and have remained a form of religious apparel in current society. As a prior research project, the authors conducted in-depth, semi-structured interviews with American mothers to gain insight into recent traditions surrounding christening apparel. The findings revealed babies range widely in size at the age of christening and mothers like to re-use family gowns. Design strategies were developed for a more sustainable christening ensemble to accommodate a variety of infant sizes. Other key design considerations were a traditional appearance and ease of donning and doffing to allow the ensemble to be worn by various-sized infants of multi-generations. The final ensemble allowed adjustability in the gown, diaper cover, booties, and headband. Heirloom construction methods added quality and durability to the ensemble producing a design that will last for generations. Future implications include considerations for childrenswear apparel designers and the home sewing/patterning market.Item Development of an Online Flat Patternmaking Course: Requirements and Strategies in the "Best Practices for Online Teaching" Seminar Session(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.Online courses are increasingly common in the textile and apparel discipline, but there are currently no dedicated forums or publications that textile and apparel professionals can consult for guidance regarding best practices for online teaching. The purpose of this seminar session was to create a space in which online course materials and teaching experiences could be shared to move forward with a monograph publication and/or teaching collection available for ITAA members.Item Delicate Target: A Multi-Dimensional Representation of Woman using RIP Digital Printing Software to Enlarging Half-scale to Full-scale(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) McKinney, Ellen C.The author previously investigated the use of flowers in advertisements targeting women. This connection between women and flowers implies that the ideal woman is delicate and beautiful like a flower. The exploration outcome was a gown that made the wearer look like a rose (McKinney, 2006). The current design’s purpose was to create a multi-faceted representation of the female target market. The visually strong black and white target side exterior was juxtaposed with a delicate floral side collaged from apparel, makeup, perfume, and jewelry advertisements. The wearer’s self-representation may be controlled by how the reversible vest is worn. Whether she chooses to show her strong side or her delicate side, the other side will always be peeking out from the inside.Item Concept Maps: Graphic Organizers for Flat Patternmaking(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.In the current flat patternmaking course, students learn patternmaking concepts from the lecture, textbook, instructor-led demonstrations, and self-practice. The innovative strategy was to introduce students to the use of concept maps to organize relevant patternmaking material. By utilizing concept maps, students can chunk or group the patternmaking concepts, which helps them to remember the material. The effectiveness of the concept maps was observed by the instructor in the class. Students expressed that they liked working in pairs because it allowed them to discuss the patternmaking concepts with another person. Students also stated that the concept maps helped them to think about the subject matter learned in the patternmaking class. In the future, patternmaking students should be taught how to make their own concept maps. This would likely assist students in their critical thinking skills and further improve their comprehension of patternmaking concepts.Item Comparison Matrix and Venn Diagram: Making Comparisons in Flat Patternmaking(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.The innovative strategy was piloted in an existing flat patternmaking course. In the current curriculum, students do not utilize any formal comparison tools to compare patternmaking concepts, i.e. dart types, stylelines, and so on. To engage students in making patternmaking comparisons, students were introduced to the use of a comparison matrix and Venn diagram. These comparison tools would allow students to practice identifying and thinking critically about the similarities and differences of patternmaking concepts such as dart types and stylelines. An inventory of student responses was compiled by the instructor after the class period, which permitted further instructor evaluation of student comprehension and application of the patternmaking concepts. A student expressed, "It helped point out differences and similarities." Other students stated the tools were helpful as visual aids in understanding the characteristics of patternmaking concepts. The students were advised to keep the handouts for future reference.Item Why Do They Sew? A Need to Discover the Motives of Young Women to Sew Their Own Clothing(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Martindale, Addie; McKinney, Ellen C.The interest in home sewing has seen a resurgence over the last decade, with the fastest growing segment of sewers being young women (IBISWorld, 2014). These women are interested in interested in do-it-yourself fashion and creating unique items for themselves. It has been over 20 years since motivations of home sewers have been studied and this young segment has yet to be researched. This proposed study aims to investigate the motivations that drive these women to sew clothing when ready-made clothing is cheaply available. Pilot study results indicate interesting motivational changes from previous research reveling emerging themes associated with garment fit, confidence, and self-expression. This confirms the need to further investigate the motivations of young women to sew garments for themselves.