Browsing by Author "McKinney, Ellen C."
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Item Adapting Lindqvist’s Kinetic Garment Method for an Upcycled, Zero-Waste Childrenswear Romper(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2018) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.The purpose was to research methods for creating a sustainable little girls’ garment by upcycling menswear (e.g., button-down shirt and ties). Specific elements of sustainability focused on include zero-waste and garment adjustability to increase useful lifespan. The market analysis invoked a secondary goal: a bifurcated design. Lindqvist’s (2013) experimental patternmaking technique of kinetic garment construction was chosen for experimentation in conjunction with upcycled textiles as his cutting and wrapping methods may be adaptable for creating upcycled and zero-waste garments.Item Analysis of Zero Waste Patternmaking Approaches for Application to Apparel(Springer, 2020) McKinney, Ellen C.; Cho, Sunhyung; Zhang, Ling; Eike, Rachel; Sanders, EulandaThe apparel industry is a major contributor to environmental problems from textile manufacturing through garment production and distribution to consumer discard – donation, landfill, reuse, or otherwise (Gam, Cao, Farr, & Heine, 2009). In 2015, there were estimated 400 billion square meters of fabrics produced worldwide and 60 billion square meters wasted during apparel production. Vennström (2012) stated that in the United Kingdom around 2.35 million tons of waste comes from the clothing and textile industry per year, which estimates about 40 kilograms (kg) per person each year. Of the 40 kg (88 lbs.) of apparel waste each year, 74% ends up in landfills (Vennström, 2012). Even though the fashion industry applies a variety of technologies to minimize the fabric waste in pursuit of cost reductions, it is still far from eliminating the waste of fabric during the cutting process. On average, 15% of fabric is wasted during the cut-and-sew garment production process (Rissanen & McQuillan, 2016). Professionals and researchers in apparel design and product development discipline are facing a tremendous challenge of combining the innovative patternmaking methods, aesthetics of apparel design, and fabric waste reduction. Zero waste patternmaking offers a solution by utilizing the entire yardage of fabric, leaving no scrap left after the garment completion (Carrico & Kim, 2014). Further, zero waste has been touted as a means to more creative apparel design outcomes (Townsend & Mills, 2013). Many approaches to zero waste patternmaking have been proposed through a range of sources— blogs, websites, books, and articles (e.g. Townsend & Mills, 2013; Carrico and Kim, 2014; Fletcher, 2013; Antanavičiūtė & Dobilaitė, 2015). Unfortunately, many of these approaches are tied to the particular fabric width and finished garment size they are presented in. The aim of this chapter is to conduct a systematic review of these approaches. In so doing, we may understand the key principles and be able to apply them across a range of fabric widths and garment sizes. The main method will be to collect a representative sample of zero waste patternmaking approaches and analyze them. Approaches will be analyzed through visually for their pattern shapes, garment components, and three-dimensional finished garment shapes. Selected approaches will also be drafted, cut, and sewn to further understand the outcomes. Research questions include: (1) What are the major pattern design principles, (2) What outcomes do these results in? (3) What challenges exist with these approaches? These findings will provide information that will help designers successfully apply zero waste patternmaking methods in apparel design. Further, the research findings will provide focus for needed areas of future research.Item Case Study as a Means to Document and Promote Creative Pattern Cutting Processes(2013) McKinney, Ellen C.Practical experiences of traditional and emerging processes in creative pattern cutting can be successfully documented and promoted through case study. Case study is a comprehensive research strategy for investigating an empirical topic by following a set of pre-specified procedures (Yin, 1994). The case study method is different from research methods such as experiments and surveys where statistical generalization is used to extend the results to a larger population. In the case study method, analytic generalization is used to generalize from the case study to theoretical propositions. This paper explores reasons and solutions for undocumented pattern cutting knowledge. Pattern cutters mentally store their experiences and processes used in cutting patterns; however, rarely is this information documented and shared. Reasons include complexity of the knowledge, difficulty in identifying and documenting specific interactions of measurement, shape, ease, fabric, and personal preference, and the fact that successful design methods are traditionally regarded as trade secrets or the genius of an individual. Case study offers a framework for identifying current practices and documenting the knowledge of the creative pattern cutter. Historically, the legal and medical professions have used case studies to document practice and learn core principles of the profession. Case study has the potential to be used effectively in research of creative pattern cutting practice.Item Comparison Matrix and Venn Diagram: Making Comparisons in Flat Patternmaking(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.The innovative strategy was piloted in an existing flat patternmaking course. In the current curriculum, students do not utilize any formal comparison tools to compare patternmaking concepts, i.e. dart types, stylelines, and so on. To engage students in making patternmaking comparisons, students were introduced to the use of a comparison matrix and Venn diagram. These comparison tools would allow students to practice identifying and thinking critically about the similarities and differences of patternmaking concepts such as dart types and stylelines. An inventory of student responses was compiled by the instructor after the class period, which permitted further instructor evaluation of student comprehension and application of the patternmaking concepts. A student expressed, "It helped point out differences and similarities." Other students stated the tools were helpful as visual aids in understanding the characteristics of patternmaking concepts. The students were advised to keep the handouts for future reference.Item Concept Maps: Graphic Organizers for Flat Patternmaking(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.In the current flat patternmaking course, students learn patternmaking concepts from the lecture, textbook, instructor-led demonstrations, and self-practice. The innovative strategy was to introduce students to the use of concept maps to organize relevant patternmaking material. By utilizing concept maps, students can chunk or group the patternmaking concepts, which helps them to remember the material. The effectiveness of the concept maps was observed by the instructor in the class. Students expressed that they liked working in pairs because it allowed them to discuss the patternmaking concepts with another person. Students also stated that the concept maps helped them to think about the subject matter learned in the patternmaking class. In the future, patternmaking students should be taught how to make their own concept maps. This would likely assist students in their critical thinking skills and further improve their comprehension of patternmaking concepts.Item Delicate Target: A Multi-Dimensional Representation of Woman using RIP Digital Printing Software to Enlarging Half-scale to Full-scale(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) McKinney, Ellen C.The author previously investigated the use of flowers in advertisements targeting women. This connection between women and flowers implies that the ideal woman is delicate and beautiful like a flower. The exploration outcome was a gown that made the wearer look like a rose (McKinney, 2006). The current design’s purpose was to create a multi-faceted representation of the female target market. The visually strong black and white target side exterior was juxtaposed with a delicate floral side collaged from apparel, makeup, perfume, and jewelry advertisements. The wearer’s self-representation may be controlled by how the reversible vest is worn. Whether she chooses to show her strong side or her delicate side, the other side will always be peeking out from the inside.Item Development of an Online Flat Patternmaking Course: Requirements and Strategies in the "Best Practices for Online Teaching" Seminar Session(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.Online courses are increasingly common in the textile and apparel discipline, but there are currently no dedicated forums or publications that textile and apparel professionals can consult for guidance regarding best practices for online teaching. The purpose of this seminar session was to create a space in which online course materials and teaching experiences could be shared to move forward with a monograph publication and/or teaching collection available for ITAA members.Item Enhancing Comfort and Absorbency: A Comparative Analysis of Commercial Nursing Pads and Proposal for the Integration of Nanofiber Technology(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2023) Zhang, Ling; Xiang, Chunhui; McKinney, Ellen C.Breastfeeding mothers frequently rely on nursing pads to prevent leaks and maintain hygiene and comfort between nursing sessions. Despite the widespread use of commercial nursing pads, existing literature has highlighted their poor performance, prompting the need for a quantitative evaluation of their functional properties. To bridge this gap, this study evaluates nine commercially available nursing pads and a proposed new nanofiber material for the nursing pad, assessing their functional characteristics, such as the capacity of absorbing liquid. Ultimately, this research aims to provide new insights into the functional properties of nursing pads and evaluate the efficacy of a new alternative.Item Examination of Current U.S. Female Firefighting Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Sizing and Fitting Process Challenges: An Opportunity to Improve Safety(Springer, 2022) Sokolowski, Susan L.; Griffin, Linsey; Wu, Yingying; McKinney, Ellen C.; Morris, Kristen; Bettencourt, ChristineBetween 2010 and 2014, the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) estimated that female firefighters experienced 1260 injuries on the fireground each year. Previous research attributed some of these injuries to ill-fitting fire personal protective equipment (PPE). Therefore, in this mixed-method paper, the authors explored the relationship between fire PPE and injuries, and how they related to sizing and fit. To achieve this aim, data were collected from manufacturer-provided web communications regarding sizing and fit, user surveys (n = 74), and 1:1 interviews (n = 31) with U.S. female firefighters. The data considered how the size and fit standards established by the NFPA and how leading fire PPE manufacturers’ interpretation of standards impacted fit for female firefighters. Interview and survey data pinpointed experiences with the PPE sizing processes that led to poor fit. The data also identified previously undocumented knowledge gaps between NFPA size standards, commercialized products, and processes used by manufacturers and firehouses to fit female practitioners. The study discovered several opportunities to improve the size and fitting process women experienced when acquiring new turnout gear. With effective fire industry partnerships and future research, women can experience fewer injuries, improved comfort, and work performance with their PPE while establishing equality with their male counterparts.Item Exploration of Body-to-Pattern Shape and Measurement Relationships for Women's Trouser Patterns found in USA and UK Pattern Drafting Methods: Implications for Garment Fit(2015) McKinney, Ellen C.; Gill, SimeonBlock patterns should accurately reflect the measurements and shape of the individual human form used in their origination to achieve well fitted garments, however, pattern drafting often uses only limited surface measurements and therefore may not be suitably developed to reflect individual forms. Two methods of block drafting (Aldrich, 2008; Joseph-Armstrong, 2010) were selected for investigation of the resultant measurement relationships (ease) and shape relationships between the leg form and drafted trouser patterns.Item Exploration of Fit Reviews and its Impact on Ratings of Rental Dresses(Korea Institute of Science and Technology Information, 2017) Shin, Eonyou; McKinney, Ellen C.The purposes of this study were to explore (1) how fit reviews differ among height groups and (2) how overall numerical ratings differ depending on height groups and different types of fit reviews. Content analysis was used to analyze systematically sampled online consumer reviews (OCRs) of formalwear dresses rented online. In part 1, 201 OCRs were analyzed to develop the coding scheme, which included three aspects of fit (physical, aesthetic, and functional), valence (negative, neutral, positive), and overall numerical rating. In part 2, 600 OCRs were coded and statistically analyzed. Differences in frequency were not found among height groups for any types of mentions (negative, neutral, and positive) in terms of the three aspects of fit in the OCRs. Differences in overall mean ratings were not found among height groups. Interestingly, valence of each aspect of fit reviews affected mean numeric ratings. This study is new in examining relationships among textual information (i.e., fit reviews), numerical information (i.e., numerical rating), and reviewer's characteristic (i.e., height). The results of this study offered practical implications for etailers and marketers that they should pay attention to the three aspects of fit reviews and monitor garments with negative fit evaluations for lower ratings. They may attempt to increase ratings by providing customers recommendations to get a better fit.Item Exploring Apparel Design Students’ Willingness to Use Virtual Reality in the Sketching Phase of the Fashion Design Process(Iris Publishers, 2024) Binhajib, Aseel H.; Eike, Rachel J.; McKinney, Ellen C.Virtual reality (VR) is a computer-generated experience through projection of shapes, objects, and scenic views via headset or helmet device and interpreted as a genuine realistic environment. The interpretation of the highly realistic projection from the eye creates an immersive experience for the user. The use of VR technology is utilized in an array of industry applications as well as learning/training spaces. In particular, when VR is used in an educational setting, studies have shown positive or improved student achievement for a variety of academic disciplines in conjunction with creativity, inspiration, engagement, and motivation. VR used in industry applications, specifically within apparel industries, has been reported to enhance efficiencies in retail, enable virtual garment fitting, and reduction of physical samples in the apparel design and product development process. Regardless of these demonstrated favorable outcomes from education and industry, few research studies have investigated students’ willingness to adopt VR as a tool for use within their desired academic discipline (feeding into their future career path). As use in the apparel design and product development process has been reported, an opportunity exists to explore VR as an educational tool to ideate fashion design ideas in an individual’s apparel design process. Thus, the goal of this study was to provide initial insights into students’ willingness to use VR as a sketching tool, compared to traditional sketching tools, during the apparel design process. A multiple case study design was employed to examine the phenomenon in eight selected undergraduate Apparel Design students. The study was guided through the lens of the Unified Theory of Acceptance and Use of Technology (UTAUT) framework to examine students’ willingness based on performance expectancy, effort expectancy, social influence, and facilitating conditions to use VR. A learning module was developed in a 300-level apparel design course specifically to explore VR as a sketching tool in their design ideation process. Students received a demonstration for how to use the Oculus Quest VR equipment and experimentation/practice time using the equipment in conjunction with the Gravity Sketch (GS) VR application which allowed student users to draw in virtual space on an imported preexisting dress form. Following the practice time, students then completed an apparel design activity using the VR tool. Students then completed a survey in which data was collected through mixed methods by questionary scales and open-ended questions. The findings suggest a relationship between social willingness to adopt VR in their design ideation process while also providing a structure for future researchers to expand the use of this technology in apparel design coursework.Item Exploring the Inclusion of Sewing Pattern Development in a Fashion Design Course(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Martindale, Addie; McKinney, Ellen C.An increased interest in home garment sewing and growth in the home sewing industry (IBISWorld, 2014) provides an interesting alternative or supplementary career choice for fashion design students. An innovative teaching strategy was developed to integrate home sewing pattern development into an advanced pattern making class curriculum at a Midwestern university. A number of technologies were used to develop a home-sewing pattern curriculum that could be used by distance and in-person learners. A pre- and post-test was given to gauge student interest in the curriculum, perceived benefits, and skills. Students responded positively to the curriculum and indicated that learning to create a home sewing patterns improved their pattern making skills. Ninety-three percent thought fashion design students should learn how to create sewing patterns and write sewing instructions Seventy-three percent of students felt that it expanded their future career possibilities.Item Female Consumer’s Fit Strategies and Fit Perception of Formalwear Rented Online: Content Analysis(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2013) McKinney, Ellen C.; Shin, EonyouWith the advent of Internet technologies, consumers today have extensive opportunities to evaluate products online. Because “consumer reviews, word-of-mouth on the products, could be the most powerful force in the market place” (Silverman, 1997, p. 34), investigating consumer reviews is crucial to understand potential aspects of clothing that consumers may use to evaluate clothing fit. Given that apparel is a highly body-related product, the body-absent online apparel shopping environments is problematic for consumers’ fit problems and sizing inconsistency. Indeed, 62% of women could not find clothing that fit well, and 57% of women did not fit into today’s standard sizes (NPD Group, 2010).Item Generating Decision-Making Hypotheses: An Exercise in Critical Thinking to Select Appropriate Slopers for Flat Patternmaking Bodice Designs(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2016) Stanley, April Elisha; McKinney, Ellen C.The innovative strategy was to introduce students to the concept of generating decision-making hypotheses for flat patternmaking. This would teach students a method of critical thinking to utilize when deciding the appropriate slopers to use in creating basic or original garments. The concept of generating decision-making hypotheses was introduced to students first with a brief explanation and using a general example. Next student were given a context specific example. Then students were required to practice generating their own personal hypotheses for patternmaking. The outcomes were students felt that generating decision-making hypotheses helped them to think more critically about their patternmaking and the ideas they had for future projects.Item Insights from an Industry Advisory Board about Online Education for Practitioners(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2014) Sanders, Eulanda A.; Zhang, Pollyanna; McKinney, Ellen C.; Lee, Young-A; Bennett, SarahHigher education institutions are increasingly using media and Internet for teaching and learning. The 2011 Survey of Online Learning reported that the number of students taking at least one online class was 6.7 million (Allen & Seaman, 2013). Sixty-five percent of higher education organizations perceive online education as a necessary part of their long-term development strategy (Babson Survey Research Group). Moreover, online education not only applies to college students, but also expands to continuing education of industry employees. Increasing technical skill requirements in apparel companies cause employees to need continued training, to keep up with the ever-changing work environment.Item ‘I’m Not a Doctor, But I Can Sew a Mask’: The Face Mask Home Sewing Movement as a Means of Control During the COVID-19 Pandemic of 2020(Intellect, 2021) Martindale, Addie K.; Armstead, Charity; McKinney, Ellen C.As the COVID-19 pandemic emerged, a widespread shortage of personal protective equipment (PPE) specifically N95 face masks were exposed. This need was quickly answered by home sewers who did not hesitate to answer the request of medical professionals to help fill the PPE shortage. As the United States entered a national quarantine, home sewers turned to social media, specifically Instagram to share their participation and communicate the need to recruit others to join them in their mask sewing efforts. This research aimed to interpret the Instagram post messages shared to understand the motivations of participation in mask sewing efforts. Social media hashtags were used to identify the messages related to home sewing face masks for the pandemic. A netnographic qualitative research approach uncovered five overarching themes: this is helping me, call to action, do it right, rising to the occasion and I’m ready for this.Item ‘I’m not a doctor, but I can sew a mask’: The face mask home sewing movement as a means of control during the COVID-19 pandemic of 2020(Intellect, 2021) Martindale, Addie K.; Armstead, Charity; McKinney, Ellen C.As the COVID-19 pandemic emerged, a widespread shortage of personal protective equipment (PPE) specifically N95 face masks were exposed. This need was quickly answered by home sewers who did not hesitate to answer the request of medical professionals to help fill the PPE shortage. As the United States entered a national quarantine, home sewers turned to social media, specifically Instagram to share their participation and communicate the need to recruit others to join them in their mask sewing efforts. This research aimed to interpret the Instagram post messages shared to understand the motivations of participation in mask sewing efforts. Social media hashtags were used to identify the messages related to home sewing face masks for the pandemic. A netnographic qualitative research approach uncovered five overarching themes: this is helping me, call to action, do it right, rising to the occasion and I’m ready for this.Item Kimono: Elucidating Meanings of Japanese Textile Artifacts for a Museum Audience(SciELO, 2021) Luu, Sophia; McKinney, Ellen C.The objective of this research was to create museum texts and educational materials for a textiles section of a major year-long university museum exhibit focused on exploring Japanese culture and aesthetics through works of fine and applied art. Little background information about the textiles was available. A sample of historical Japanese kimono, yukata, and obi in a university collection was examined using material culture and semiotics research methods. The motifs present in the textiles were identified and explored for how the motifs represent values relevant to Japanese cultural practices throughout time. In particular, motifs were analyzed for their noted conveyance of a society’s religious and cultural values. Motifs were predominantly botanical, emphasizing the respect for nature within Japanese culture. Other motif categories present included geometric, animals/insects, cultural/everyday objects, and landscape motifs. 104 individual motifs were identified. Symbolic meanings were examined and interpreted alongside present materials, colors, and techniques. The use of material culture and semiotics research methods for analyzing Japanese textiles is mapped in this study.Item Learning from Market Identification of Japanese Fashion Designers: A Beacon of Hope for Sustained Traditional Textile Production(Iowa State University Digital Press, 2025) McKinney, Ellen C.; Watanabe, YukoJapan's textile heritage, a vibrant testament to its rich material culture, is a fabric treasure trove and a crucial element in the fashion industry. These textiles, a product of generations of human wisdom and tradition, serve as a testament to the past and a gift for the future. Crafted by intricate networks of individuals, each contributing their unique skills in fiber, spinning, weaving, dyeing, and embroidery, these exquisite cloths embody Japan's cultural heritage. They also inspire and are championed by contemporary fashion designers, who are instrumental in preserving and promoting these traditional textiles in modern fashion. It was found that using traditional Japanese textiles presents opportunities and challenges to fashion designers in identifying their customers and their place in the market. While such textiles offer exclusivity, niche markets, and higher price points, they also limit the designer. There are similarities and differences among target customers, which designers must consider.